JG Domestic
2929 Arch St, Ground Fl
Philadelphia, PA 19104
215. 222.2363
Price Range: $$
On the ground floor of the Cira Center, one of Philly's newest gleaming glass and steel skyscrapers, is a gem in and of itself. JG Domestic is Iron Chef Jose Garces' seventh and newest eatery in Philadelphia (he has one location in his hometown of Chicago as well), and his first farm-to-table spot. As firm believers in eating locally, we were thrilled to find JG Domestic's menu was fully domestic, with an emphasis on the Mid-Atlantic region.
From our seats, we gazed out on the Philly skyline through the large atrium's windows and dug into the freshly baked dinner rolls brought out in a piping hot cast-iron skillet. They had the delicate layers of a croissant, but the density of a nice loaf. We were off to a great start. Our first course included cranberry bean soup with in-house chorizo, Brussels and apple foam and pig trotters which came with a chunky cranberry compote and Dijon spots to dip into. The trotters were reminiscent of an upscale scrapple, a local hearty pork meatloaf of sorts. The soup was surprisingly light, with flavors that were both delicate and intense.
The servers gave us ample time to soak in our drinks while letting our minds wander about the following courses. Next up was some delicious kabocha squash with sautéed black kale, shaved sheep's milk cheese and candied squash seeds. Then out came a wild boar rack, which was more like a giant Frenched chop, with mustard glaze and creamy maple grits. The boar's deep flavor melded well with the lump of house-made vinegary whole grain mustard. Forkfuls of grits and garlicky greens quickly followed each other. Each plate was garnished with edible baby sprouts which added color -- no clumps of useless parsley were in sight.
To finish up the night, we went back to the snack menu and ordered a bowl of phenomenal hickory-smoked pecans with maple and bacon, followed by a dessert titled simply "Bourbon." "Bourbon" included New Orleans style beignets served with a vanilla mousseline -- think thick, whipped, luscious ice cream -- and a Maker's Mark butterscotch dipping sauce. The alcohol was most definitely forward on the palate, offering a sharp contrast to the creamy mousseline and warm beignets. The pecans were the surprise hit of the entire meal. They were soft but not mushy, and packed with so many levels of flavor in each single nut. Savory brunoised bacon bits clung to the delicate folds of the pecan's sticky glaze.
The large, airy space had plenty of open seats on the rainy, windy and cold Tuesday night when we ventured out, but word will surely get out quickly, so jump on a reservation before it's too late!
Scale is based on a 3-course meal per person.
Photos by Albert Yee
