My early Cleveland awareness came from a movie, Howard the Duck. I quote, "If I had some place to go I certainly wouldn't be in Cleve-Land." Thank you, George Lucas. From the 30 Rock TV series I learned about "The Cleve." Thank you, Tina Fey. A local newspaper back in the day lost an "a" from the city founder's General Moses Cleaveland's last name to fit it into a masthead. Today, the city has a new slogan, "Discover the Unexpected Side of Cle+."
So, on my recent trip to C-Town I was ready for discoveries. Follow in my footsteps, and see for yourself that culinary Cleveland turns out to be rather spectacular.
The ultimate brunch destination can be found at Fire Food and Drink in the historic Shaker Heights neighborhood. Chef-owner Doug Katz operates wood-fire ovens, whips up house-made Hollandaise to pour over mushroom eggs Benedict, and presides over Cleveland's Independents: restaurateurs who unite to support local farmers and each other in a concerted effort to promote their trade.
At Light Bistro in Ohio City, choose from 160 great wines from all over the world, and pair them with house-baked parmesan baguettes or Valdeon cheese and almond-stuffed bacon-wrapped dates.
Dinner at Chinato on East Fourth Street in the new entertainment district might surprise and delight you with creative dishes such as beef tongue with beets and greens, fried skate wing alla Milanes, airy tiramisu and miniature cannoli.
The neighboring Greenhouse Tavern is a large and well-oiled operation, and the first certified green restaurant in Ohio. Acclaimed chef-owner Jonathan Sawyer brings a whole beast from the city market and uses every part of it in his cuisine. He relentlessly follows his commitment to recycling and green living.
The Tavern's specials and favorites are many. Among them are veal gravy fries with mozzarella curd, crispy chicken wings with jalapeno, garlic, and lemon juice, pork skins with parsley, beef tartar, and Erie walleye in light tomato broth.
No matter how full you might be, never leave Greenhouse Tavern without Jeni's ice cream. From cherry with Belgian beer to salt water caramel the flavors are varied, and nothing short of divine.
The mother load of all culinary advancements in Cleveland is found at West Side Market. It was built in 1912 with indoor and outdoor areas and overflows with farm-fresh fruit, vegetables, meat and dairy, freshly baked breads, and ethnic foods. Its 180 booths contain everything from Lake Erie fish to Hungarian sausage and French pastries.
And then there are the Lake County wineries. Pinot Noir grown from Dijon clones is a specialty of St. Joseph Vineyards owned and operated by Art and Doreen Pietrzyk. Other highlights include German-style semi-dry Vidal blanc and sweet ice wine made from frozen-on-the-vine grapes, icy and sugary with concentrated juice.
South River Vineyard is located in a salvaged 1892 building that was formerly a Methodist-Episcopal church – cathedral ceiling, colored glass windows, pews, and all. It's the successful enterprise of first-generation winemakers, Gene and Heather Sigel, whose best wines come from vineyards on premises overlooking the Grand River Canyon. South River's best seller is a reserve Riesling, but it also produces rich dry reds with names like Exodus, Trinity, and Karma, and dessert wines called Creation and Temptation.
More information at: www.positivelycleveland.com.
Photos courtesy of Yuri Krasov
