It’s a feeling unlike any other when you visit New Orleans. From the statue of famous New Orleans native Louis Armstrong at the airport welcoming you to the unique aesthetic of the historic homes on St. Charles, each section of New Orleans, Louisiana, or ‘NOLA’ as it is affectionately known, welcomes newcomers. Be prepared to be romanced by its music in small spaces and amazed by its colorful artwork displayed in historic buildings. The richness of its cuisine will have you moaning while you chew and wondering how you were satisfied with food anywhere else.
Most New Orleanians I know are food snobs and I didn’t understand why until I lived there myself. I fell in love with NOLA the first time I ate a traditional dish. It is true that the best food you will ever eat will be in the home of a NOLA born and raised cook. I lived in NOLA for a brief period, but I keep coming back as often as I can for the food, music, unique architecture, art, and people.
The people of NOLA give you that feeling that anything is possible here. Their resiliency is infectious and the love for their city easily rubs off on you. Even though the French Quarter is unique to the “Big Easy,” there is so much more to this city than this famous center. I challenge you as a visitor to branch out and discover NOLA beyond its most well known borders.
Sights
City Park and New Orleans Art Museum
City Park is an outdoor wonderland of sculpture and botanical gardens, willow trees, ponds, and benches to enjoy them. Summer time is hot and sticky, but the rest of year (especially the spring) has warm perfect days. On those great weather days, this is a fantastic location to pack a picnic with a blanket and reconnect with a loved one. Stroll the free sculpture garden and have great conversation or just enjoy the silence. The New Orleans Art Museum has some great exhibits. When I was there, Edgar Degas was being featured and it was a lovely outing for under $10. On any given day, you will find artifacts from around the world and, of course, NOLA artist creations. This urban sanctuary is enriched in culture, history, and natural beauty.
Garden District, Historic Homes
NOLA is like our cherished elders; she is wise and seasoned. We wouldn’t dare call our grandparents old and NOLA is no different. NOLA’s Garden District, for instance, has homes that were built in the 1850s ranging from traditional shotgun to Gothic Revival-style homes. I’ve done many walkabouts on the streets of Camp and Prytania as well as the famous St. Charles Ave. On your walk, you will see willow trees lining the sidewalks, gardeners and painters doing their regular upkeep of the properties, and residents walking their dogs. When you are not on the street car or in a cab, put on your sneakers and get exercise in the most enchanted of locations.
Audubon Park
This family-friendly location is filled with fun things to do for every age group. It has a zoo, a golf course, river access, bike and walking trails, volleyball nets, soccer fields, tennis courts, a community pool to cool off on those hot days, and well-manicured grounds throughout. Tulane and Loyola universities are within walking distance, with fountains and sculptures sprinkled around the park. NOLA residents take full advantage of this locale and more visitors ought to as well. It is another virtually free fun location that is too good to pass up!
Sounds
Frenchmen Street
My earliest exposure to NOLA was in the 1992 movie Boomerang. Eddie Murphy’s character took Robin Given’s character out dancing in a small, crowded club with live music that I now know was a brass brand. Well, I was lucky enough to experience that energetic and romantic live music experience on Frenchmen Street. Many small clubs and lounges line the street where you can hear the music from the sidewalk to decide if that is the kind of music you are into for the night. You are already dancing before you show your ID at door. Café Negril for reggae and Blue Nile where you may find a local favorite, Kermit Ruffins, are my favorite places on Frenchmen. I’ve had many of adventures on Frenchmen. If you look up where Rebirth Brass Band is playing, trust it will always be a party!
Tipitinas
This music venue isn’t as small as those on Frenchmen, but it is still able to give that intimate musical experience. With multiple locations and a range of musical performances, Tipitinas will most likely please all music lovers. There is room to dance without deciding who your partner is, but still close enough to the stage to really hear the artistry of the musicians.
Eats
Pascal’s Manale
Founded in 1913, this family-owned Italian-Creole restaurant was made famous by creating BBQ shrimp. This Uptown location is a favorite among residents and visitors alike. The veal, oysters, and of course the BBQ shrimp dishes are some of the best in the city. Call before you come to ensure they are open, and I would suggest making reservations. It is worth the visit!
Big Fisherman Seafood
Remember those picnics at City or Audubon Parks I mentioned? Big Fisherman Seafood market is the place to pack up your basket with ready-made Southern treats. During crawfish season, you can buy well-seasoned crawfish (cooked and hot) by the pound to take away like Creole fast food. I’ve sat on a bench eating crawfish, fingers red and lips tingling from the spicy seasoning, with a Big Shot soda, enjoying life. This is a favorite activity of the locals that I completely enjoyed every time I could. Yet another inexpensive lunch or dinner to eat anywhere you want, no reservations required!
Trolley Stop
Just as the title suggests, it is a stop along the cable car route. This is one of my favorite breakfast spots in the city. It’s right on St. Charles Ave. with large portions and grits that are so creamy, you might just want order a large bowl and call it a day. This is another smart economical choice that is worth every penny. You might have to wait a bit, but once you sit down, you will be surprised by what you get for your dollar. A true culinary value with fantastic service!
Byblos
If Creole flare isn’t always your flavor, there are more types of food in NOLA that are spectacular. Byblos is a Mediterranean restaurant with an extensive wine list and a fantastic grilled shrimp Greek salad, on trendy Magazine Street. The outdoor seating for lunch is central for people watching and inside is elegant for dinner. This is one of my favorite spots and my NOLA family knows I have to go there at least once each trip.
Shopping
Magazine Street
Then there was Magazine. Magazine Street is where savvy shoppers go to find vintage treasures in one-of-a-kind boutiques with great bars and restaurants in between. I have many of handbags from boutiques such as Tomato and Hemline that I have never seen anywhere else. When I get a bag compliment, I proudly say, “Oh, thank you. Magazine Street in New Orleans.” For those who love SoHo and Harlem in NYC for their hidden treasures, Magazine Street will not disappoint.
NOLA is a big-small city. There are so many hidden treasures that this article could easily morph into a book if I am not careful, but I wanted to highlight those places that always make me happy and NOLA is where happiness lives. Find your happiest state in NOLA!
To read highlights of this year’s Essence Music Festival, click here.
Photos by V. Sheree Williams
